 In
the 1960s, 20th-century architecture started to threaten Guadalajara's
historical integrity. In the early 1980s the city declared the
30-square-block downtown area a cultural sanctuary, and in the
late 1990s a private trust was formed to care for el Centro (city
center). Here, large Spanish-style plazas, where you'll stroll
past vendors and marble fountains, connect the 16th-century buildings.
At nearby Plaza de los Mariachis, nostalgic songs fill the air.
In addition to the city center,
most tourist sights and large hotels are located in three other
areas: near Avenida Chapultepec, near the Minerva Fountain and
Los Arcos monument, and in the Plaza del Sol shopping area southwest
of downtown. Here's a list of the very best things to see and
do.
Barranca
De Oblatos: A spectacular
2,000-ft-deep gorge, Oblatos Canyon also has hiking trails and
the narrow Cola de Caballo waterfall, named for its horsetail
shape. For the best view, go to the lookout area, or Parque Mirador,
at the top. 10 km (6 mi) northeast of downtown Guadalajara via
Calzada Independencia Norte.
Basílica
De La Virgen De Zapopan:
This vast church, with an ornate plateresque facade and mudéjar
(Moorish) tiled dome, was consecrated in 1730. It is known throughout
Mexico as the home of La Zapopanita, Our Lady of Zapopan. The
10-inch-high statue is venerated as the source of many miracles
in and around Guadalajara. Every year on October 12, more than
a million people crowd the streets leading to Zapopan as the Virgin
is returned to the basilica after a five-month absence, during
which she visits every parish church in the state. In the right
side of the basilica is the Museo Huichol (Avs. Avila Camacho
and de las Américas), a small gallery and shop featuring
the exquisite handicrafts of the Huichol Indians. It's open weekdays
9-1 and 4-7, Saturday 9-1. The basilica is 7 km (4½ mi)
west-northwest of downtown.
Casa-Museo
López Portillo:
Guadalajara's illustrious López Portillo family included
prominent writers and politicians, such as an early 20th-century
Jalisco governor and his Mexico City-born grandson, José
López Portillo, president of Mexico from 1976 to 1982.
As is typical of homes built by Mexico's 19th-century upper class,
the plain stucco exterior belies the rich interior, where French
baroque-style rooms ring a spacious interior patio. Liceo 177,
at San Felipe, Phone: 3/613-2411. Cost: Free. Weekdays 9-8:30,
Sat. 9-1.
 Cathedral:
Consecrated in 1618, this focal point of downtown is an intriguing
mélange of Baroque, Gothic, and other styles, the result
of design and structural modifications during its 57 years of
construction. Ten of the silver-and-gilt altars were gifts of
King Fernando VII, in appreciation of Guadalajara's financial
support of Spain during the Napoleonic Wars; the 11th, of sculpted
white marble, was carved in Italy in 1863. In a loft high above
the main entrance is a magnificent late-19th-century French organ,
featured in an organ festival usually held in May. Av. Alcalde
between Av. Hidalgo and Morelos. Daily 8-7.
Iglesia
De Nuestra Señora De Aranzazú:
Don't be fooled by Our Lady of Aranzazú's drab brown stone
exterior: inside is a spectacular Baroque gilt altar whose 14
niches contain life-size statues of saints. The walls' and ceilings'
intricate floral details are painted in bright shades of turquoise,
rose, and rust. The church is on the west side of Parque San Francisco,
a small green oasis that draws food vendors, families, and senior
citizens. Av. 16 de Septiembre and Prisciliano Sánchez.
Phone: 3/614-4083. Daily 10-2 and 4-7.
Iglesia
De San Agustín:
The venerable St. Augustine Church is one of the oldest churches
in the city. It has been remodeled many times since its consecration
in 1574, but the sacristy is preserved in its original form. The
building left of the church, originally an Augustinian cloister,
is now the Escuela de Música (School of Music) of the University
of Guadalajara. Free recitals and concerts are held on its patio.
Morelos at Av. Degollado. Phone: 3/614-5365. Daily 8-8.
Instituto
Cultural Cabañas:
This landmark neoclassical-style cultural center, designed by
the famous Spanish architect-sculptor Manuel Tolsá, served
as home for 400 orphans and indigent children until the 1970s.
The rooms, which surround 23 flower-filled patios, contain permanent
and revolving art exhibits. The central dome and walls of the
main chapel display a series of murals painted by José
Clemente Orozco, whose paintings, cartoons, and drawings are displayed
in Room 33. Ask the attendant at the front desk for an English-speaking
guide. Calle Cabañas 8, at Plaza Tapatía, Phone:
3/617-4322 or 3/617-4440. COST: About $1; free Sun. Tues.-Sat.
10:15-6, Sun. 10:15-3.
 Museo
De Arqueología De Occidente De México:
The Archaeological Museum of Western Mexico houses pottery and
other artifacts used by ancient peoples of what are now the states
of Colima, Jalisco, and Nayarit. It's in the street divider across
from the entrance to Parque Agua Azul. Calzada Independencia Sur
and Av. del Campesino, Phone: 3619-0104. COST: $3. Mon.-Sun. 10-2
and 4-7.
Museo
De Cera: At this wax
museum in the historic downtown area across from Plaza de la Liberación
visitors can go eye-to-eye with Madonna, Mahatma Gandhi, beloved
Mexican comic Cantinflas, and a host of other political and artistic
luminaries. Visit the underground Aztec sacrificial chamber, a
hall of Mexican history, all of Mexico's presidents, world leaders,
and a chamber of horrors. A wax mariachi, playing "Guadalajara
Guadalajara," greets you at the door. Morelos 217, Phone:
3/614-8487. COST: $1.50. Daily 11-8:30.
 Museo
De La Ciudad De Guadalajara:
In a series of rooms surrounding the tranquil interior patio of
this spacious remodeled colonial home, you'll find informative
artwork, artifacts, and reproductions of documents about the city's
development from pre-Hispanic times through the 20th century.
Calle Independencia 684, between Contreras Medellín and
Mariano Bárcenas, Phone: 3/658-2531 or 3/658-3706. COST:
30¢; free Sun. Wed.-Sat. 10-5:30, Sun. 10-2:30. Museo De
Las Artes De La Universidad De Guadalajara: The University of
Guadalajara's collection of 20th-century drawings and paintings
features modern Latin American, U.S., and European works. The
paraninfo -- a round theater in the museum's center -- frequently
hosts chamber music groups. There is also a charming café.
Behind the museum on Avenida Lopez Cotilla, the Templo Expiatorio
is a striking Gothic church built at the turn of the last century
and modeled after the Orvieto Cathedral in Italy. Av. Juárez
at Av. Enrique Díaz de León, Phone: 3/825-6114 or
3/825-7553 ext. 66. COST: About $1; free Sun. Tues.-Sat. 10:30-6:30,
Fri. till 8, Sun. 11-6.
Museo
Del Periodismo Y De Las Artes Gráficas:
In 1792 Guadalajara's first printing press was set up on this
site, where today you can see displays of historic newspapers,
printing presses, recording equipment, and a complete television
studio. The building has long been known as the Casa de los Perros
because of the two wrought-iron dogs (perros) "guarding"
the roof. Av. Alcalde 225, Phone: 3/613-9286. COST: About 50¢.
Tues.-Sat. 10-6, Sun. 10:30-3.
Museo
Regional De Guadalajara:
This former seminary is home to the Regional Museum, also known
as the State Museum. The first-floor galleries, which surround
a garden courtyard, contain artifacts and memorabilia that trace
the history of western Mexico; there are also revolving arts and
crafts exhibits. On the second-floor balcony are five 19th-century
carriages; the galleries offer an impressive collection of paintings
by European and Mexican artists and displays about the history
of Jalisco. Liceo 60, Phone: 3/614-9957. COST: About $1.60; free
Tues. Tues.-Sat. 9-6:45, Sun. 9-3.
Palacio
De Gobierno: Built
in 1643, this churrigueresque and neoclassical structure houses
Jalisco's state government offices and two of José Clemente
Orozco's most passionate murals: one representing oppression and
slavery, the other reform. Av. Corona between Morelos and Pedro
Moreno. Daily 9-8:45.
Palacio
Municipal: Guadalajara's
city hall is a clever, colonial-style fake: it was built in 1952
with an arched facade and interior patio to fit in with neighboring
buildings. Inside is a colorful mural depicting the founding of
the city. Av. Hidalgo at Av. Alcalde. Daily 9-8.
Parque
Agua Azul: Amid acres
of trees and flowers, this popular park has carnival rides, tropical
birds in cages, an orchid house, and a geodesic dome covering
a tropical garden. The lively Museo Infantil (phone: no Phone)
on the southeast side of the park has hands-on displays on geography,
outer space, and natural history for kids. Next to the park entrance,
the small Teatro Experimental (Phone: 3/619-1176) presents children's
plays (including English-language classics in translation), dramas,
and chamber music performances Calzada Independencia Sur and Av.
del Campesino 973, Phone: 3/619-0328 or 3/619-0332. COST: 40¢.
Tues.-Sun. 10-6:30.
Planetario
Severo Díaz Galindo:
A modern facility with astronomy shows and aeronautical displays,
the planetarium also has exhibits that allow children to test
the forces and laws of nature. It's 6 km (4 mi) northeast of downtown.
Anillo Periférico Manuel Gomez Morin 401, east of the Calzada
Independencia, Phone: 3/674-4106 or 3/674-3978. COST: Museum 20¢;
astronomy show and movie 40¢. Tues.-Sun. 9-7.
 Plaza
De Los Mariachis: Experience
the most Mexican of music in this picturesque little plaza complete
with cafés, where strolling mariachi groups perform. Though
the action here lasts all night, it's best to visit during the
day. The plaza is next to the Iglesia de San Juan de Dios. Calzada
Independencia Sur between Av. Javier Mina and Alvaro Obregón.
COST: Mariachi serenade about $4 a song.
Teatro
Degollado: This magnificent
1866 theater, modeled after Milan's La Scala, has a relief depicting
Apollo and the nine Muses above the Corinthian columns gracing
the entrance way. The balconies ascend to a multi-tiered dome
adorned with Gerardo Suárez's depiction of Dante's Divine
Comedy. The theater is the permanent home for the Jalisco Philharmonic
and the Ballet Folklórico of the University of Guadalajara
and also hosts' concerts by visiting orchestras, plays, and numerous
other performances. Guadalajara was allegedly founded on the site
of what is now the Plaza de los Fundadores, which flanks the east
side of the theater. A sculpted frieze on the rear wall of the
Teatro Degollado depicts the historic event. Calle Degollado between
Av. Hidalgo and Morelos, Phone: 3/614-4773 or 3/613-1115. Mon.-Sat.
10-2 and during performances.
Tonalá:
This quiet village with dusty, cobblestone streets and adobe structures
is home to more than 6,000 artisans. Locals create the lovely
pottery pieces, cobalt-blue glassware, and playful animals with
the same materials and techniques their ancestors used. It's possible
to tour home studios by contacting the Tonalá municipal
tourist office (3/683-1740) a day before you plan to go. On Thursdays,
merchandise is sold at bargain prices at one of the best markets
in all of Mexico (avoid Sundays). Most stores are open Monday
through Saturday 10-2 and 4-7, Sunday 10-2.
 Tlaquepaque:
This charming town is known throughout Mexico for its intricate
blown-glass miniatures, exquisite pottery, and other hand-made
arts and crafts. More than 300 shops line pedestrian malls and
plazas. The distinctive decorated pottery was first fashioned
by nearby Tonaltecan Indians in the mid-16th century; in 1870
the art of glass blowing was introduced from Europe. Eventually,
other artisans -- weavers, jewelers, and wood-carvers -- arrived
and built workshops. The pedestrian mall, Calle Independencia,
is home to many shops, as well as the Museo Regional de Cerámica
(No. 237). Typical store hours are Monday through Saturday 10-2
and 4-7, and Sunday 10-2.
 Zoológico
Guadalajara: The impressive
Guadalajara Zoo has more than 1,500 animals representing some
300 species; take the 50¢ guided train tour. The adjacent
Selva Mágica, or Magic Jungle amusement park, has carnival
rides and attractions for about $1.30. The complex is 6 km (nearly
4 mi) northeast of downtown, near the planetarium. Paseo del Zoológico
600, Phone: 3/674-1034. COST: $1.80. Zoo Wed.-Sun. 9:30-6, Selva
Mágica Tues.-Sun. 10-7.
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